From the anti-nuclear arms exhibition senzatomica at MACRO in Testaccio, which I happened upon this evening. What was remarkable, and not particularly well captured in my video, is the credible sound and vibration – the actual sound of an atom bomb exploding with video reminiscent of the low frame rate scenes in Jacob’s Ladder, a visual metaphor for the chaos of the explosion and the human impact. It runs every 15 minutes, and when it does … more
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A new chemical reaction
Mix one part Prosecco Valdobbiadene, a beautiful light, dry, effervescent Prosecco, with one part pepato (pecorino cheese with peppercorns); swish softly; and wait patiently but not long at all, the Prosecco molecules will meet those of the pepato in a quite remarkable holy explosion of flavor. Really, why would one ever both with brie and chardonnay? (For future reference, I am reminded to click here for a delicious brand of Presecco. And we’ve been buying the pepato at … more
Italian stone (umbrella) pines of Rome
They’re everywhere. Stone pines, also called Italian stone pine, umbrella pine and parasol pine. Any wonder? Symphonies have been written about them (The Four Pines), and websites. Above are two that I captured today while walking through Villa Celimontana, a 16th-century villa & public park at the top of Caelian Hill.
Italian stone (umbrella) pines of Rome
They’re everywhere. Stone pines, also called Italian stone pine, umbrella pine and parasol pine. Any wonder? Symphonies have been written about them (The Four Pines), and websites. Above are two that I captured today while walking through Villa Celimontana, a 16th-century villa & public park at the top of Caelian Hill.
A sobering day
Today is a sobering day, not just because Becky returned to California and Charlie’s flight from Crete was cancelled. In the morning, after Bruno picked up Becky, I left Casa di Alice to explore. Rain clouds gone, the sun arrived, startlingly bright, but with a cold wind like a slap. In the first block after my apartment, I ran into the first begger, an African man, or at least a man of African descent, in … more
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Celebrating my 59th birthday at Felice with Becky, on her last night in Rome. Lovely dinner of puntarelle, carcoifi alla Romana, pasta cacio e pepe, braciola. Prosecco to start, amaro to finish, Syrah in between. Alex the Cuban-Italian-American adding a vest to the experience. Life doesn’t get any better.
I Cappuccini
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Today’s visit to Il Convento dei Cuppuccini di Vea Veneto, including the Capuchin Crypt. Imagine it must really liven up for Dia de los Muertos.
The Capuchin Crypt is a small space comprising several tiny chapels located beneath the church of Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini on the Via Veneto near Piazza Barberini in Rome, Italy. It contains the skeletal remains of 3,700 bodies believed to be Capuchin friars buried by their order.[1] The Catholic order insists that the display is not meant to be macabre, but a silent reminder of the swift passage of life on Earth and our own mortality.[2]
Described by Frommer’s as “one of the most horrifying images in all of Christendom”,[3] large numbers of the bones are nailed to the walls in intricate patterns, many are piled high among countless others, while others hang from the ceiling as light fixtures.




The derivation of “fettuccine alfredo” and the only restaurant in Rome where one may order it without embarrassment.
From Paolo Caravani: Michael let me give you a couple more tips on the (perused) topic of italian cuisine: you ought to try, when you have a chance, a simple pasta dish called “Paglia e Fieno”. It’s an assembly of narrow strips of fettuccine of two colors: yellow=Paglia=Straw and green=Fieno=Hay. Usually dressed in white sauce with parmigiano cheese and black pepper. If well done they should be creamy and light. If you like the genre, … more
Bel paese (phrase) – Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Bel paese (phrase) – Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Bel paese is the classical poetical appellative for Italy, meaning the “beautiful country” in Italian, due to its mild weather, cultural heritage and natural endowment.
The usage of the term originated in the Middle Ages, being used by Dante and Petrarch:
del bel paese là dove ‘l sì suona,
Of the fair land there where the ‘Sì’ doth sound,
il bel paese
ch’Appennin parte e ‘l mar circonda e l’Alpe
The term is currently widely used in modern Italian as in other languages as a synonym for Italy, but can sometimes be intended slightly ironically.[1] It is commonly used as a term of endearment by members of the Italian diaspora, and it is often used to endorse or promote goods[2] and services[3] both in Italy and abroad.
